Discover the Faroe Islands’ Hidden Gems: Buttercup Routes and Sub-Sea Tunnels

With tourism set to reach unprecedented heights in the Faroe Islands this year, it’s the perfect time for travellers to explore the archipelago’s scenic backroads and newly inaugurated sub-sea tunnels.

Just minutes from Sørvágur village on Vágar Island, the road ascends towards a sheer ocean cliff. A unique road sign catches the eye: a bright yellow flower against a green backdrop.

This symbol, devoid of words or numbers, is the marsh marigold, the national flower of the Faroe Islands. Known locally as sóljuleiðir, this glossy buttercup brightens the landscape where strong winds prevent tree growth.

These signs mark the “Buttercup Routes,” enticing travellers to venture off the main highways and onto less travelled, picturesque paths. These routes are about the journey rather than the destination, offering an experience akin to “Driving Miss Daisy” set in the dramatic landscapes of Middle-earth.

A map by Landsverk, the Faroe Islands’ Ministry of Transport, outlines 13 routes across the 18 islands. These itineraries guide travellers away from congestion, providing a tranquil exploration of the archipelago’s natural beauty and serene lifestyle.

During my five-day stay, I navigated eight Buttercup Routes, discovering that the scenic detours are always worth the time. The Gásadalsleið route, for instance, led me through a dark mountain tunnel to Múlafossur waterfall, which plunges into the sea beside the village of Gásadalur.

From this vantage point, I could see Mykines, the westernmost island, shrouded in fog—a breathtakingly beautiful sight.

These routes, ranging from 3.8km to 19.5km, reveal stunning vistas: ocean-drop waterfalls, hanging lakes, and quiet valleys where sheep outnumber people. One notable route, Saksunarleið, leads to the village of Saksun on Streymoy Island, ending at a turf-roofed church by an inlet framed by cliffs. Another route on Eysturoy Island offers views over Funningsfjørður fjord and descends to the harbour village of Gjógv, with a view of the dragon-scale ridges of Kalsoy Island.

The introduction of new sub-sea tunnels has further enhanced the road trip experience in the Faroe Islands. In December 2023, the 10.8km Sandoyartunnilin opened, connecting Streymoy and Sandoy Islands, previously separated by a 30-minute ferry ride. This tunnel, the fourth of its kind in the Faroes, not only eases access to the Buttercup Routes but also features a stunning art installation by Edward Fuglø, illuminated with neon lights and accompanied by an ethereal soundtrack by Sunleif Rasmussen.

Resident Helga Hilmarsdóttir highlighted the tunnel’s impact: “The tunnel has given everyone a new purpose, helping create a new life in our villages. People don’t want to spend their lives just milking cows or herding sheep anymore.” Her family is preparing to open tourist accommodations, embracing the influx of visitors through the “heimablídni” concept, where tourists enjoy traditional Faroese meals in local homes.

Another notable tunnel is the Eysturoyartunnilin, which opened in December 2020. This 11.24km tunnel, featuring the only roundabout under the Atlantic, offers an abstract, almost otherworldly driving experience. Artist Tróndur Patursson’s steel figures at the roundabout’s centre symbolize the Faroese spirit, looking inward but reaching for the light.

The Faroe Islands, once characterized by their isolation, are evolving on their terms, embracing tourism while preserving their unique culture and traditions.

One final Buttercup Route, Oyggjarvegur, takes you from Tórshavn into the mountains, offering panoramic views far superior to the coastal road. The high point reveals the island of Koltur, its dorsal fin shape cutting through the shimmering sea, with hardly another vehicle in sight—a fitting end to an unforgettable journey.

The Open Road celebrates the world’s most remarkable highways and byways, reminding us that some of the greatest travel adventures happen on four wheels.