Khon is perhaps the most famous traditional performing art in Thailand, captivating audiences with its intricate blend of dance, martial arts, and traditional Thai music. This “masked drama” brings to life the stories of the Ramakien, Thailand’s national epic based on the Hindu tale of Ramayana, through colorful costumes, exquisite jewelry, and dramatic performances.

Visitors to Thailand have likely encountered the iconic characters of Khon without realizing it. At Suvarnabhumi International Airport in Bangkok, for instance, large statues of yak, or giant ogres, tower over departing passengers. These ogres are among the many characters that appear in the Ramakien. Dating back to the Ayutthaya era (1351–1767), Khon performances vividly depict scenes from this classic piece of literature. The art form was recognized by UNESCO as part of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2018.

Characters and Performance

In Khon, the main character groups include the “Phra” (lords), the “Nang” (ladies), the “Yak” (ogres), and the “Ling” (monkeys). While the monkey and ogre performers wear masks, the other characters use bold makeup to accentuate their facial features. The dialogue is voiced by a narrator who remains unseen during the performance.

Khon is performed in various settings today, from schools and special events to tourist-frequented Thai restaurants. One of the best places to experience an authentic Khon performance is Bangkok’s Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theatre. This historic venue hosts three shows per day, five days a week. CNN recently visited the theatre to speak with performers about the challenges of keeping this traditional art form alive in modern times.

Apassara Nok-ork, a seasoned Khon performer, has been performing the art for two decades. At 35, she plays the role of Suvannamaccha, the mermaid or golden fish, who tries to thwart Hanuman’s plan to build a bridge across the sea, only to fall in love with him instead. The preparation for a Khon performance is extensive. Apassara and her co-lead, who plays Hanuman (the Monkey King), must arrive several hours early to prepare for the day’s three performances.

As she meticulously applies her makeup, Apassara explains her long journey with traditional Thai dance, starting at the age of four and focusing on Khon from the age of 15. “We have to start it at a very young age,”

she says. “And we have to keep practicing the routine and keep training our body to maintain our strength, since the costume is really heavy. While we perform, if we didn’t have enough training, our exhaustion will show, and the audience would see it.”

The dedication and discipline required to master Khon are immense. Performers must endure rigorous training to build the necessary strength and stamina. The heavy costumes and intricate movements demand both physical and mental resilience. Despite these challenges, Khon performers like Apassara continue to bring the ancient tales of the Ramakien to life, ensuring this vibrant piece of Thai culture remains vibrant and appreciated by future generations.